I got up early and caught the first bus up through Zhangjaijie
National Park. The road ahead of us was empty as we wound through
the mountains and past the uniquely beautiful and intriguing Sou
Xi Lake. Our bus pulled up to a stop in front of the Bailong
elevator and I stepped down into a atmosphere of trees and
surrounding cliffs with drifting fog... excellent photo
opportunities. What I did not anticipate was something I have
never seen anywhere else in all my travels. Behind us another bus
stopped, packed completely full of Chinese tourists, escorted by a
megaphone toting tour guide, who raised the electric amplifier to
her mouth and started shouting instructions and information to her
group, the sound disrupting the still, quiet morning. Directly
behind that was another bus full of tourists with another
megaphone toting tour guide, probably blaring out all the exact
same things that the first guide was shouting, the two megaphones
now clashing together into one chaotic disturbance. Directly
behind that was yet another bus group with yet another megaphone.
It was one bus after another, nonstop all day. Obviously, China's
concept of a "National Forest Park" was different from anything I
had ever seen.
I walked around and took some photographs before catching the
elevator to the top of the mountain, in retrospect a mistake. I
could have been one of the first on the mountain and stayed
ahead of the crowd (at least until I stopped to look at the
scenery or capture a beautiful image.) The "trail" was not what
I expected. It was neatly inlaid with brick and at least a meter
wide, quite urban for a national park. That should have made it
easy to get from one overlook to another. But despite its width
and refinement, it was packed shoulder to shoulder with tourists so that it was difficult to walk,
and all of them led by tour guides, multiple megaphones barking
out against each other in total auditory chaos. Had I known it
was going to be like this, I would never have come here. Though
it was extremely beautiful, this was not my kind of place, not
the experience I was looking for.
But Zhangjaijie is a large park
with lots to explore. The trick is to find "the road less
traveled." Everyone in China wants to ride up the elevator the
see the most advertised spots, and to be photographed along side
of the statue of Neytiri, the blue-skinned Na'vi princess from
the movie "Avatar". But I found (as pictured above) this quiet
mountain on the south side of the park. The reason it was so
quiet was because there was no elevator or tram, the only way to
get there was to hike up some very steep terrain. I imagine most
of those Chinese people whom I was bumping shoulders with on the
other mountain were city folk who had no desire to climb 2,000
feet with their own legs. I spent the entire evening climbing
up, circling the top, taking photographs, and descending back to
the bottom, and only encountered a half a dozen other people. Perhaps Zhangjaijie was the
extreme, but any time I go to a national park, or any other
international attraction, I will always remmeber to
schedule time for "the road less traveled."
(Note: I visited Zhangjaijie in
2013, a lot of changes may have taken place since then.)
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